The Cowboys of the Sertão in the Heart of Brazil

The Sertão, in the Brazilian interior, is a semi-desert landscape. This dry region, with thorny shrubs and cacti, often suffers from drought. The dry season lasts ten to eleven months, and annual precipitation is usually below 500 mm, with years without rain occurring as well. Only a few animals, such as the anteater or the armadillo, survive under these difficult conditions.

The name Sertão originated during the Portuguese colonisation. When they left the Brazilian coast and penetrated inland, they noticed a big difference in climate. As a result, they called the area ‘Desertão’ (desert). Soon this name was understood as ‘vom Sertão’, so that in the end only the word ‘Sertão’ remained.

The Brazilian cowboys in the Sertão look after the herds of the large landowners. They wear the gibão, a tight-fitting leather garment that sits like a second skin.

The gibão protects them from the burning sun and the ‘caatinga’, the white forest. This is what the Tupi Indians called the vegetation of the hinterland, with its thorny shrubs and cacti. When they were tracking a runaway cow, normal textiles would quickly be torn by the thorns of the caatinga vegetation.

Today, only about 700 vaqueiros tend to the cattle herds. Their life is full of danger. Accidents often happen, falls and risky bull chases. Many cowboys trust their fate to God.

The ‘Missa do Vaqueiro’, the greatest cowboy mass, takes place in Serrita, Pernambuco. It honours the cowboy Raimundo Jacó and has become an annual highlight for the vaqueiros and many thousands of visitors.

Legend has it that Jacó's singing attracted the cattle. His envious colleagues lured him into an ambush and murdered him. Jacó's faithful dog watched over the lifeless body day and night until it too died of hunger and thirst.

Three years after his tragic end, Jacó's courageous story became a Sertão myth. Luiz Gonzaga immortalised Jacó's life in the song ‘A Morte do Vaqueiro’. It became one of the most famous and moving Brazilian songs.

Every year at the end of July, around 700 cowboys ride to Serrita. They gather in front of the ‘Parque Estadual João Câncio’. One of them opens a bottle of cachaça with his teeth and passes it around. Order suddenly emerges from the chaos of dust and hooves: the cowboys form lines of two and ride slowly onto the grounds. At the head rides Vicente Jacó, son of the famous Raimundo Jacó. As they ride in, they ring little bells and sing.

They have reserved a place in front of the altar. Thousands of worshippers, tourists and onlookers line the large, horseshoe-shaped square. The Bishop of Salgeiro asks God to protect the cowboys. The cowboys attend mass on their horses.

The show never ends during the five days. Around 400,000 people visit the Vaqueiro National Park. This celebration, just 535 km from Recife, is the largest cultural event in the Sertão.

28 music shows present well-known artists from the national and regional music scene on different stages.

At the same time, the Brazilian rodeo, the ‘Vaquejada’, takes place, with various sporting activities. The equestrian tournaments include bull riding, bull catching and obstacle courses.

Numerous food and beverage stands are responsible for the physical well-being of the visitors.

The legend of the cowboy Jacó lives on through the voice of Luiz Gonzaga and has become the myth of the Sertão.